Day 3 : Malia Marsh Crete. During the winter this place is full of water and a myriad of life. In summer, it's a barren wasteland but if you know where to look you will still find some real gems. Patience is the key as ever with the natural world....
Some wildlife here are very common. The Crested Lark being one such creature. Not a bird you would encounter in our neck of the woods but here you can see them every step of the way...
Red Veined Darters are common here too and this one perched perfectly for me.
Our last time here produced a plethora of Swallowtail Butterflies. In the UK you would need to travel to specific areas of the Norfolk Broads to witness these other worldly lemon zested gossamer coated wonders. In this neck of the woods you can see them frequently. I had seen these little stunners only briefly so far. This time they gave me a short and sweet taster once again.
Heading North along the beige dusted track a medium sized bird flew over my head. I knew immediately what it was. It was one I was hoping to see. We saw one here two years ago whilst having lunch at the Taverna here.
I turned and gave chase as it disappeared over the crest but skidded to a halt before I got much further so as not to disturb it if it landed close by.
Using the shrubs as cover I sneaked around trying to locate it.
There it was about 50 feet away...a Hoopoe !
This is a strange exotic looking bird that is seen here on migration and we came at the right time.
A bird like no other, it's distinctive long down curved bill black and white striped wings and fantastic crest that rises like a fan when excited or agitated.
It was once thought to be part of the Kingfisher and Bee Eater family but is now lumped together into the Hornbill family. I'm sure these taxonomists know what they are talking about?!
Whatever their origin, they are beautiful and unique creatures.
They mainly feed on the ground with their diet consisting ostensibly of insects but they are known to take frogs, reptiles, and sometimes seeds and berries too.
This was the closest I was going to get. I stood and waited but it flew a distance and try as I might I couldn't relocate it.
There are around 100 sightings in the UK every year, normally around April and May on the South Coast as they migrate North from Africa to Europe but sometimes overshoot into Britain. I have never seen one apart from abroad, so this was a special sighting.
I continued on my now distracted direction. Many more Crested Lark flew up from the ground they are so camouflaged on. Much better to see them atop a shrub or rock.
I had reached the border fence that separated me from the Roman ruins and mosaics it is possible to pay to see. I was more interested with what was perched on the border. It was another Red Backed Shrike as from the other day. A juvenile this time.
The views up into the mountains gave up some buildings dotted around. Some occasional large new built houses plus what looked like some Monastery or Church. I wasn't climbing up there to find out however, it was far too hot and distant.
I kept to the heathland before me...
As I was heading back towards the Marsh itself I knew of a looped route that would lead me through farmland and olive groves too.
Now given the name marsh you would expect to see something resembling water but this is the end of summer and still 30 degrees so the only water in sight is the Aegean Sea over my shoulder but there are reeds here which give the impression there may be water lurking somewhere beneath.
The sign here gave an insight into the history and geology of the marsh which was quite interesting.
It's formation goes back to 6400BC, is an important stopover point for migratory bird species and is also important for being a hotspot for the rare Crete Orchid
The wild growing succulents like the massive Agave plants give the place a North African feel about it.
On the sand dunes were the last remnants of the Sea Daffodil, a speciality here.
Those Crested Larks were never too far away...
The rounded spiky Opuntias also grew large like the pointed Agave
Hibiscus flowers were in full bloom and could be seen in many a cultivated front garden down the main street.
I turned off the main drag as I started my loop. Small farms and smallholdings dotted the land either side of the road. Off one side of a track some Phacelia grew and on this I saw some Butterflies floating around feeding. My first Eastern Bath White of the trip !
They have a beautifully marked underside similar to that of our Orange Tip but it paled in comparison to the next species that hoved into view. Another Swallowtail and close in this time and then one more joined in.
I was in heaven, my camera shutter working overtime but occasionally I would stop and just admire them in real time.
A breather from the ground was a distraction by a Buzzard gliding overhead that landed on the post not far away.
No, not good enough, I was back on the ground once more....
A Common Blue gave some respite to overdose of Swallowtail but not for long...
I make no apologies for my over indulgence. This was a conservative number of photos. I must have taken at least a hundred. Time stood still as I scrambled around in that dry dusty field and I didn't care.
Totally fulfilled by 30 minutes sat in a farmers ploughed field, I dropped back onto the main road to continue my loop. I found bramble along the side of the road with Violet Carpenter Bees sluggishly lapping up the nectar on the flowers.
Another Blue Butterfly appeared, something rare I expected but it was a common Holly Blue, still special nonetheless.
These violet flowers must be part of the bindweed family and remind me of the Morning Glory cultivated ones my Dad used to love to grow in the garden.
Southern Skimmer Dragonfly were very common along the edge of the fields. Although little water around, they hunt wherever there is prey through dry vegetation.
I tried finding elusive Langs Short Tailed Blue Butterflies but to no avail and as lunchtime was looming I settled for a last shot of a Common Blue before meeting Sarah at the Taverna by the beach for a beer and some local delicacies.
After lunch I gave one more sweep of the heathland along the rocks by the sea but knowing the hottest part of the day wouldn't yield much in the way of animals. I just absorbed the scenery and plants without too much exertion in the stifling heat. It beats working any day.
Hooded Crows are always active it seems, no matter what time of day.
Having had enough walking, I meandered back to the beach to relax awhile with Sarah before getting our lift back to our hotel.
Outside our digs the locals were relaxing too. This friendly white female had been in the wars which were evident in the scars she bore.
She, along with the ginger males would never turn up the chance of a free easy meal given by the tourists, namely us!
We chilled out by the pool with a cold refreshing beer and as most of the people had gone, the Sparrows came down use the facilities...
Back out on the street the anarchic neighbourhood youngsters took little notice of the sign, Beware of the Dog as we headed to our room to change for a night in the town.
Day 4 : We decided to return to Malia for another day. I had unfinished business to attend to..
10am and the temperature was rising fast.
My closest encounter with a Crested Lark gave me inspiration for the morning ahead.
The place where the Hoopoe sat the day before had an ants nest. Possibly what the bird was looking for ?
There was no sign of it today.
I stopped off at the Taverna for an early coffee to fuel my adventure.
The Larks accompanied me as usual...
and occasionally a Swallowtail would flit past.
For a change I came across a small Moth. This is a Pale Shoulder which hid in amongst the grasses.
These purple ground thistles where dotted all around the heathland and are great food for all kinds of insects. I was hoping to see a Cardinal Butterfly but they were strangely absent this time here. I was guaranteed a sighting two years ago.
Greek honey is well worth trying and hives would be dotted across the landscape.
I was going to retrace my steps on the circular route once more, albeit in the opposite clockwise direction today.
Immediately in the olive groves I saw a small bird feeding in the branches. It was a Wood Warbler.
Something I had ventured to find in the New Forest in Hampshire back home.
I left it be and emerged from the groves into the searing heat.
Red Veined Darters patrolled the bushes looking for a meal.
and the white snails clung to almost impossible perches. Surely they would cook in this heat even being a reflective white?
I was now along the main back road where I saw the Swallowtails the day before.
While trying again to see what was flitting around the roadside bramble I happened to turn my head to look down the road. Good timing, as a Hoopoe flew in the opposite direction and hooked a right turn behind a bank of trees into a field. I edged to the end of the trees. The bird was in the field but flew a little distance further on. Close enough to reel off a few frames however. It had it's crest raised at first but dropped it before I could get on it.
Then a few seconds later it was off over the marsh and into the distance, never to be seen again.
I consoled myself with a Spotted Flycatcher feeding in the field just off the roadside.
Turning my attention back to the bramble I had the perfect view of a stunning Wasp Spider. I've always wanted to see one and this gave me wonderful views as it seemed to be finishing off wrapping a victim for later consumption.
Another great little walk around the Marsh.
We met up at the Taverna for a beer and picked up our ride home.
Back at the hotel once more. We sat relaxing in the cool foyet. On the wall across from me I could see an insect high up.
It was a something very rarely seen...a Hummingbird Hawkmoth at rest. I've only ever seen them buzzing around flowers gathering nectar at speed.
Another cloudless day wound it's way to it's end as we sat on our balcony sipping an aperitif before dinner.
We had another fantastic meal in town at an Organic restaurant with the best Sea Bream I've ever tasted.
On climbing the stairs to our studio we happened across a Preying Mantis. I rescued it from being trodden on, not before taking a picture or three of course!
Another lovely hot day with the best views of Swallowtail Butterflies I have had.
I sat and reflected on the day as I lay in bed looking at the mirrors reflecting the wallpaper on the wall above our bed.
This post is dedicated to my new wife Sarah. Here's to many more happy years together as husband and wife . I love you xxxxx
The title of this post is a line taken from the poem 'Swooping Swallowtails' by Christine K Trease
