Sarah and I had booked a break to Skiathos many moons ago and while my wife counts the days to our late summer holiday with building excitement, I don't normally feel the full burst of joy until our impending departure.
Gatwick was our departure gate at unearthly o'clock. A luxury of Andy our friendly local taxi guy softened the journey stress time.
Stress of travel is enough, knowledge of transportation is quite another unwanted edition. Not to forget the footprint it leaves which troubles me no end.. Hence why I don't like to fly too much which gets less and less by the year.
Having been a self confessed plane spotter in my youth and second youth, you get to know aircraft. Especially the same registrations. Our TUI Boeing 757, registration, G-BYAW I recognised, even through the smoked glass windows and dim half light of a Sussex dawn airport terminal. New posh curved wingtips couldn't disguise it's 25yr age and Britannia Airways history to me. I wish I was more ignorant sometimes. I'm not religious but I did say a few hail Mary's on departure and upon landing as well. It's a short runway in Skiathos so it looks as though you are landing in the sea on approach !
Skiathos is a Greek island that lies to the Northwest of the Aegean Sea or East of the Greek mainland. From this point heading in an Easterly direction you would reach the island of Lesvos ( a previous holiday and beautiful island) and then the Turkish mainland. The gateway to Arabian countries and then forward to India and Pakistan.
Our home for the next week looked tiny upon approach. So rich and diverse naturally, it's migratory species include homosapiens that many abandon in October when the tourist season ends.
The whole flight was very smooth with calm weather throughout. The Alps looking particularly stunning from thirty five thousand feet and the Island even more so upon approach.
After settling into our boutique hotel in Koukounaries at the western end of the island after possibly the scariest taxi ride we've ever been on and probably the fastest, I do what I normally do, get out on foot and explore the surroundings.
The path at the end of the hotel grounds ascended into the wooded hillside. This is quite a lush and green island with more deciduous trees than I think I've ever seen in Greece.
As the path wound ever upwards I came across tiny butterflies flitting in the sunrays and nectaring on wild rosemary. I've seen these before. Lang's Short Tailed Blues. Only the size of a twenty pence piece but up close they are quite beautiful.
South of the hotel lies the famous curved sandy beach of Koukounaries that holidaymakers flock to. It is one of the most beautiful sought after beaches in the world. It's also backed by a pine forest and lake that is fed from the sea by a small channel. As good as the beach is, this is the place where I prefer to relax and unwind.
A pair of Black Swans frequented the area.
There is scrubland surrounding the opposite shore of the lake and although it was getting late in the summer season there were still flowering plants in abundance. Great nectar sources for the few butterfly species still on the wing such as this common Small Heath and Meadow Brown.
Some Small Coppers were around but most were a little tatty and not long before they expire.
Common darters hunted around the lake and used an occasional perch to rest
The best time to walk the beach before the hubbub of the day took hold was early morning naturally.
After an early morning walk it was back to a routine of gathering things for the beach. Well, over just seven short days, routine can be difficult to come by but normally we would take to the easy life of relaxing on the coast with some delicious lunch in between. Although I would generally go walkabout in the wildgrounds nearby for a couple of hours before returning for lunch and then being resoundingly thrashed at cards afterwards by my wife Sarah, although she does cheat quite a lot and is extremely lucky too !
Although late in the season with many species departed there was still an abundance of life around.
Mallow Skippers are similar to our own Dingy Skipper. I think I prefer the former name. Dingy always does the butterfly a disservice to me.
Wall Brown butterflies are still common in Europe, much less so in the UK and probably on their way to becoming extinct there. So to see one is a pleasure I don't want to take for granted. Even if this was a little worn and not long for this earth.
I'm not sure of the exact species of the pink flowering shrub that the Butterflies loved but they were in full bloom and giving late nectar to several species of insects including the irresistible Hummingbird Hawkmoth, the surreal species that dart endlessly from flower to flower at lightening speed, so to keep up with them requires a dexterous finger on the shutter button and good peripheral vision.
Painted Lady's were close by and in serious numbers. The UK has had a bumper year but here they were absolutely everywhere. On this patch alone I reckon there could have been well over one hundred.
Not quite so numerous but still fairly common was the Mallow Skipper once again.
One enigma that refuses easy photographic meetings is the Clouded Yellow. I'm getting quite good at the Clouded Yellow dance. Bouncing madly across the undergrowth in the hope it will stop to nectar for more than two seconds without disturbing it and keeping a discreet distance. This individual did but that was all I was allowed. I was hoping for a better meeting in the coming weeks holiday.
One species I've become accustomed to see in Greece is the Swallowtail. So rare in the UK that you would have to travel to Norfolk reedbeds to catch even a glimpse. Here they are almost guaranteed on any sort of dusty scrubland. It didn't take me long to find one. Something so beautiful yet so common you have to pinch yourself everytime you see one.
Intermittently the Clouded Yellow would tease me ruthlessly.
My love for nature extends to all animals especially the domestic. Prior to our trip, Sarah had arranged to meet up with the Skiathos Cat Welfare Society. They have a couple of places where they are based to look after the many strays around the whole island. Those who have visited any Greek island will know that stray cats are profuse. Many unneutered and most uncared for. We had a tour of their premises which was under threat of eviction. This has now come to pass. They are now in the long drawn out process of looking for a permanent home which in Greece can take an eternity. They do amazing work, above and beyond. We had half a suitcase full of treats and vetinary supplies for them.
Upon arrival it's difficult not to be overwhelmed and overcome by the sight of the number of felines in need. A few are not well but they do their best in difficult circumstances. I'll let the pictures tell the story...
Sharon (centre) is the tour da force of the welfare society. A non stop whirlwind who manages the group along with the volunteers around her. When winter arrives it becomes so difficult to keep afloat. They lose many cats at this time with few volunteers to help out as many have left for home and those that live on the island visit family for a few weeks so it's up to Sharon only at times to care for them. Winters can be harsh even though it's in Greece. Wind and rain is the norm and even snow isn't uncommon.
After our visit we walked around Skiathos Town and became aware of the work they carry out. Many feeding stations helping the cats survive.
Those with ears clipped have been neutered, of which I have never seen so many. There are lots that are re-homed, many to Holland and some to the UK although with Brexit looming it is going to be much harder to take one there. They will most likely have to stay in quarantine much longer so potentially putting people off adopting.
If you would like to make a donation they are easily found on any social media site or their own dedicated web page.
Back to base and my usual tour of Koukounaries resumed.
Spotted Flycatchers in the woodland were popping up everywhere. I would imagine these were on migration through to Africa with maybe a few having nested in these parts. I would love to know where the breeding grounds of each bird were, maybe some even from the UK ?
The Small Copper kept showing in the dappled light every now and then. This individual looked in better condition than the previous examples.
What looked like Willow Warblers flitted tantalisingly close in the canopy but just out of decent views.
Through the back of the tree line and onto the lake I stumbled across a bird low down in the scrub.
One I was hoping for as they are fairly common in the Mediterranean but only on migration occasionally in the UK. It was a Red Backed Shrike
It was a female and possibly a juvenile at that.
My only one in Britain was at Farlington Marshes in 2018 so to see one again was rather special.
It was looking out for insects in the grass below.
When lunchtime arrives, my stomach usually tells me or Sarah sends me a text, as she knows all too well I can be distracted by something special and lose track of time. So back for a snack, beer and siesta, not before being once again being resoundingly thrashed at cards. No wonder I take solace in nature to sooth my bruised ego !
Our slow walk back through the woods at the end of the day, along the lake and onto the dusty road by the tavernas always throws up a few cats. We always go loaded with cat treats...
The grounds of our small hotel is a mini nature reserve in it's own right. I found this Praying Mantis on the back of our chair on the balcony. They are fascinating insects. If I move slowly they will follow by swivelling their heads and if you look even closer - their tiny pin prick pupils too.
Moths were not uncommon either, these are some type of the many 'Wave' type species around the gardens.
Another day, another mooch on our doorstep. Darter dragonflies love their regular perches on the heathland. Even if they flew off they would generally return to the same spot making photography so much easier than the Clouded Yellow butterflies I've been chasing all week. Maybe today would be a better day where they were concerned?
Having caught another distant one, my hopes were high.
Those purple shrubs gave a great opportunity as you can see...
Swallowtails began popping up with regularity. I never get tired of seeing them.
Then my reluctant quarry zipped past me. I prayed for it to stay for just a few seconds longer...
On this occasion it reciprocated.
Some five seconds later, it was off again !
The following day I had decided to rise before sunrise which after a warm evening of cocktails, fine dining, vino and a nightcap can be a struggle but manage it I did. Just the negotiation of the local sheep and I was onto the golden sands of Koukounaries beach once more and the final time of our holiday, albeit the penultimate day of our break.
This is the best time for me. Barely a soul around and well before the hubbub of tourist rush.
With little human activity, nature fills in the gaps. Hooded Crows are usually found picking up the scraps from the previous day's human waste.
Even what looked like domestic rabbits hopped around the back of the beach
This one reminded me of the Black Rabbit of Inle from Watership Down - a favourite childhood book of mine and one I return to periodically. Sometimes the film too. Not sure if he was doing the work of Frith and he wouldn't let on if he was the cousin of General Woundwort so I left him to nibble the vegetation in peace.
By the harbour I stood on the bridge and pondered on the lack of Kingfisher action over the past week. Almost on cue, two appeared, followed closely by a third !
Two in this shot with the other not too far away.
A warming mornings walk complete I met Sarah in the hotel restaurant for a hearty breakfast to set us up for the tough day ahead...
Upon reaching our beach chairs it was apparent one was already occupied by a friend of ours...
As ever it followed my every move...
I let it have first dibs and went walking for the last time in the woodland while Sarah kept it company.
The Spotted Flycatchers could still be seen flitting about the canopy. Similar to the Darters, they would lift off from a perch, catch a fly then return to the same point.
Upon my walk I met an English chap who described some Herons he had seen on the maze of paths through the trees. By his description I had surmised them to be Black Crowned Night Herons. They feed in the evening due to their name and roost during the day. He led me to the place of their roost and although difficult to obtain a decent shot they were definitely the aforementioned species. A mix of adults and young - some twenty in total.
They are easily disturbed so we moved on.
Yet more Flycatchers...
Willow Warblers too..
As I circumnavigated the area I could still make out the Herons. Oh for a decent close up, but they left me wanting...
Down on terra firma there were so many grasshoppers around my feet as I strolled back to beach base, then back to the hotel.
Even at the hotel the Flycatchers seemed to follow us.
Our last day was to be a boat trip around the local islands.
We met up with Theo and his yacht in the harbour of Skiathos Town, not before stumbling across some customers of mine from the UK who were sat on the harbourside having just arrived for their holiday, what a small world!
Aboard the boat, apart from Theo, myself and Sarah were eight other people. Mainly from the UK but two from Spain.
Theo was a real charmer and made us feel very welcome and part of a family for the day.
He explained that the summer had been hot but very windy. This was the calmest day of the year he told us. How lucky we were.
That's not our boat by the way, just a passing fisherman.
Every now and then he would moor up so we could swim and snorkel in the crystal clear Aegean sea.
A brief stop at some caves then some delicious traditional Greek food for lunch.
Theo was quite happy to let his part time family take the tiller. I was quite happy to sit back, enjoy the ride and listen to his adventures while watching the world go by and the calming music playing in the background.
As we neared our last mooring spot to watch the sun go down, I spotted Eleonoras Falcons gliding distantly along the coastline. A regular bird of prey in Greece.
Having dropped anchor it was time for champagne to celebrate our day before chugging back to port.
The perfect trip to end a wonderful week. We have always loved Greece. The food, people,culture and ultimately the nature. I was here twenty seven years ago in my youth. I doubt I will return to this island so what a perfect send off.
The title of this post is from the poem 'Cat Island' by Thom Gunn
https://www.poemhunter.com/poems/cat/page-1/29925/
Gatwick was our departure gate at unearthly o'clock. A luxury of Andy our friendly local taxi guy softened the journey stress time.
Stress of travel is enough, knowledge of transportation is quite another unwanted edition. Not to forget the footprint it leaves which troubles me no end.. Hence why I don't like to fly too much which gets less and less by the year.
Having been a self confessed plane spotter in my youth and second youth, you get to know aircraft. Especially the same registrations. Our TUI Boeing 757, registration, G-BYAW I recognised, even through the smoked glass windows and dim half light of a Sussex dawn airport terminal. New posh curved wingtips couldn't disguise it's 25yr age and Britannia Airways history to me. I wish I was more ignorant sometimes. I'm not religious but I did say a few hail Mary's on departure and upon landing as well. It's a short runway in Skiathos so it looks as though you are landing in the sea on approach !
Skiathos is a Greek island that lies to the Northwest of the Aegean Sea or East of the Greek mainland. From this point heading in an Easterly direction you would reach the island of Lesvos ( a previous holiday and beautiful island) and then the Turkish mainland. The gateway to Arabian countries and then forward to India and Pakistan.
Our home for the next week looked tiny upon approach. So rich and diverse naturally, it's migratory species include homosapiens that many abandon in October when the tourist season ends.
The whole flight was very smooth with calm weather throughout. The Alps looking particularly stunning from thirty five thousand feet and the Island even more so upon approach.
After settling into our boutique hotel in Koukounaries at the western end of the island after possibly the scariest taxi ride we've ever been on and probably the fastest, I do what I normally do, get out on foot and explore the surroundings.
The path at the end of the hotel grounds ascended into the wooded hillside. This is quite a lush and green island with more deciduous trees than I think I've ever seen in Greece.
As the path wound ever upwards I came across tiny butterflies flitting in the sunrays and nectaring on wild rosemary. I've seen these before. Lang's Short Tailed Blues. Only the size of a twenty pence piece but up close they are quite beautiful.
Mallow Skippers are similar to our own Dingy Skipper. I think I prefer the former name. Dingy always does the butterfly a disservice to me.
Not quite so numerous but still fairly common was the Mallow Skipper once again.
One enigma that refuses easy photographic meetings is the Clouded Yellow. I'm getting quite good at the Clouded Yellow dance. Bouncing madly across the undergrowth in the hope it will stop to nectar for more than two seconds without disturbing it and keeping a discreet distance. This individual did but that was all I was allowed. I was hoping for a better meeting in the coming weeks holiday.
Upon arrival it's difficult not to be overwhelmed and overcome by the sight of the number of felines in need. A few are not well but they do their best in difficult circumstances. I'll let the pictures tell the story...
Sharon (centre) is the tour da force of the welfare society. A non stop whirlwind who manages the group along with the volunteers around her. When winter arrives it becomes so difficult to keep afloat. They lose many cats at this time with few volunteers to help out as many have left for home and those that live on the island visit family for a few weeks so it's up to Sharon only at times to care for them. Winters can be harsh even though it's in Greece. Wind and rain is the norm and even snow isn't uncommon.
Those with ears clipped have been neutered, of which I have never seen so many. There are lots that are re-homed, many to Holland and some to the UK although with Brexit looming it is going to be much harder to take one there. They will most likely have to stay in quarantine much longer so potentially putting people off adopting.
If you would like to make a donation they are easily found on any social media site or their own dedicated web page.
Back to base and my usual tour of Koukounaries resumed.
Spotted Flycatchers in the woodland were popping up everywhere. I would imagine these were on migration through to Africa with maybe a few having nested in these parts. I would love to know where the breeding grounds of each bird were, maybe some even from the UK ?
One I was hoping for as they are fairly common in the Mediterranean but only on migration occasionally in the UK. It was a Red Backed Shrike
My only one in Britain was at Farlington Marshes in 2018 so to see one again was rather special.
On this occasion it reciprocated.
Two in this shot with the other not too far away.
Upon reaching our beach chairs it was apparent one was already occupied by a friend of ours...
The Spotted Flycatchers could still be seen flitting about the canopy. Similar to the Darters, they would lift off from a perch, catch a fly then return to the same point.
Yet more Flycatchers...
We met up with Theo and his yacht in the harbour of Skiathos Town, not before stumbling across some customers of mine from the UK who were sat on the harbourside having just arrived for their holiday, what a small world!
He explained that the summer had been hot but very windy. This was the calmest day of the year he told us. How lucky we were.
That's not our boat by the way, just a passing fisherman.
https://www.poemhunter.com/poems/cat/page-1/29925/
