The Beaten Air the Only Sound, As Time Itself Stands Still

A week away in unfamiliar territory always brings with it a mixture of anticipation and expectation. Not to forget to mention the dusting of relaxation to boot.

Myself, Sarah and my Mum in Law Doreen, took the long road to Cumbria. I have visited here before but in a time in the depths of Winter, tucked into forests watching rally cars flash past whilst freezing myself to the spot. Oh the sights around me I had better placed my time upon.  So it was a time for redress. ..

This holiday wasn't a specific nature orientated sojourn, but by definition, whilst in the world around us I will absorb the surroundings, and what wonderful surroundings.

Our little holiday cottage was placed high above the banks of Esthwaite Water. A lake situated between the more well known masses of Coniston and Windermere. The latter, the longest lake in the Lake District and the former, the well known body of water synonymous with Donald Campbell who broke the world land and water speed records of the 50's and 60's and tragically lost his life whilst trying to push the barrier of his own water speed record there in 1967.

I had researched his life and record attempts, during and prior to our visit here to gain an insight into the enigma of the man and the essence it gave to the area. More on that later...In the meantime, I had Esthwaite Lake to explore and Hawkshead - the main town at the head of the lake - to get to know too. So much to fit into one week. 

Hawkshead is an interesting little village with no true main road through it's centre but only skirting it's periphery.
The main square consists of a main community hall which at the time was selling Tibetan clothing and other related items. On the opposite side was the Kings Arms. One of four main pubs in the town which is unusual for such a small place.
To the left is a fantastic delicatessen and to the right a great little shop selling jams and chutneys made locally.  

The hanging baskets were spread all around the town and some of the best I have seen.

One of the buildings in the square had a newly opened shop. It was called the Kittchen for reasons soon to be made obvious.
The spelling in the title is a clue. A place to come and drink and eat and also to be in the presence of cats. This was right up our alley!

They have six rescue cats here and have some great food and drink too. Whether it be a coffee or a fab choice of craft ales. I chose the latter and with their delicious platters as an accompaniment whilst stroking the cats it was a great place to relax.
This is Mimi who loves the camera, plus 5 other cats in the large open plan downstairs with a large room upstairs and a side room bolt hole to get away from people when they want to.
They have themed nights also. Talkeasys, film and quiz nights. A top place to hang out after a day mooching around the area. Thoroughly recommended.

It was good to get to know the town, now it was time to get to know the lake at the end of our accommodation.
I left Sarah and her Mum to relax in the bungalow and headed off to Esthwaite Water.

The footpath led me down past a farm where Harebells flourished along the stone walls.

I picked out Azure Damselflies as I neared the waters edge.

I found the outer path on the opposite side of the lake. Apart from a Royal Airforce C17 Globemaster transport plane overhead, all
was relatively quiet.
The stone wall bordering the path produced a Small Tortoiseshell butterfly but that was about it.






The lake isn't too long at around 2.5km and just over half a kilometre wide. It was Beatrix Potter's favourite lake and was supposed to have been the inspiration to the character Jeremy Fisher in one of her stories.
I was in search of Avian creatures however, rather than Amphibians.

Nearly on the point of return after fruitless  searching, I rounded a corner and spotted a dark shape at the top of a tree on the opposite bank.
Using my binoculars I noticed I had stumbled across my quarry. My heart leaped beats, no doubt similar to the length of Jeremy Fisher's web footed equivalents..

I walked gradually closer, taking shots all the while...

I had found my elixir of life and a first ever sighting of a real Osprey nest !
The female was sitting on top of the highest camera that was trained on the nest below. 

I came across the male gliding around the lake, clearly out hunting for fish.

The female would occasionally come and go, waiting for her mate to deliver a fresh fish for her and what was clearly three young. Although they had seemingly grown to almost adult size and plumage. It wouldn't be long before they would fledge.

The three youngsters clearly visible in the nest.

Out of nowhere and without me seeing it hunt, the male appeared clutching a medium sized fish in it's talons.

It landed straight onto the nest to the delight of the eager young Ospreys.

The female joined the feast.

I found a small bay by the lakeside directly opposite the nest site on the opposite bank.
I waited for more action, it wasn't late in coming as one small fish doesn't last long with five beaks to feed.

The male headed to the end of the lake, not far from our cottage and took a dive at an unsuspecting prey.

Talons forward and wings back in typical Osprey pose. A little far away but at least a shot of it hunting !

It scrambled to the surface and within seconds was airborne again. A quick ruffle of feathers to shake off as much water as possible and it was off to it's nest once more. I was so chuffed to watch one hunt at last, what a sight!

It flew slowly up to the nest and my first moments Osprey watching here were a complete success. Was it beginners luck I thought as I decided to walk back to the cottage ? Only time would tell...

Not the best of shots but you get the gist...

Our time here wasn't just about the Ospreys or the wildlife. We had trips out to the surrounding area planned.
Windermere was our first destination and a boat trip along part of it's ten and a half mile length was in order.

The day was cool and Windermere town and quayside can be quite of a tourist trap in season and so it proved today. The ship we boarded and many others on the lake was packed with sightseers.

The masses on board seemed more concerned with doing 'selfies' than anything else.
I concentrated on the real beauty of the area without my ugly mug in the frame!

Paddlesteamers still ply their trade up and down the lake.

There were a few bits and pieces around. I happened across a Red Breasted Merganser as it landed over by the shore.

Then found a group of females roosting on the shore.

Our destination reached, the next mode of transport was waiting. A steam train to take us from Lakeside to Haverthwaite was stoked and ready to go.

On Haverthwaite station was a display of Owls from the local sanctuary.
This beautiful Eagle Owl I was allowed to hold. Quite a light bird despite it's size. It was more interested in flying back to it's perch than sit on my arm so I decided to photograph these stunners instead.

This is Voo Voo, a White Faced Scops Owl.

Indah, an Asian Brown Wood Owl.

Our own Tawny Owl..

After a nice pub lunch in Haverthwaite, it was back on board for our three mile chug back to Lakeside.

Then back on the boat to Windermere.

The RAF use these places for practice and every now and then a jet would frighten the life out of us as it shot up the lake.
Sometimes a Tornado or Hawk and sometimes a Typhoon such as this one..

Hercules transport planes were regular sights too..

After a pleasant trip along the lake, it was back to base for a rest. Well for the girls really, I was off exploring again...
I took to the footpaths that criss cross the adjacent area...

There were lots of House Martins whirling around my head at the nearby farm plus I stumbled across a cow who had clearly just given birth moments before. The calf was struggling to take it's first steps. I stood enthralled at the new life before me...

Mum supported the shaky legged calf and washed it down as it gathered strength.

After a little difficulty, the calf eventually found the end dispensing the drinks, so I left them to bond in peace. Hopefully he won't be taken away from her too early?

The following day was little overcast and drizzly but we went on a trip to nearby Ambleside regardless...

Nestled in the hills it really is a tourist trap. Pretty, with some outdoor clothing shops worth a look but I came away feeling a little cheated.
Apart from the visit to the local church that is. I lit a candle for my Mum here and had what she would always describe to me as one of her 'Feelings'. As though she was there with me. I definitely came over very perculiar but in a reassuring way. 

We headed off to have lunch in a quiet pub just over the hills nearby.

The river that flowed through it had Dippers feeding through the rapids although I had the wrong lens attached so they remained distant. There is one in the picture I can assure you !

We ventured back to base and as I sat in the conservatory I could make out an Osprey sat in one of the distant trees not too far from the nest.

A Sparrowhawk flashed past also but our day was done so we settled down to an evening in our cosy cottage. I planned to rise early in the morning and venture down to the lake as the forecast was for still weather so the light, potentially, should be good.

It was 6.30 am. The sun had risen just before me but the mist lay lightly on the lake still. Until it rose higher above the hilltops the pale shroud should stay for the time being.

My destination was the northern end of the lake just 10 minutes from the cottage.

Upon reaching the peninsular that juts into the water, the mist remained unmoved in the stillness.

The exposed mud in the corner tempted birds out to feed. Among the Coot and Mallards, a Water Rail joined the throng although a little distant for decent shots.

Canada Geese are, as with many a water body in this country, ubiquitous and didn't fail me here.

The Ospreys' hadn't been too obvious so far but I could make out what looked like the male in a favoured Beech Tree perch.

As the mist gradually dissipated the reflections grew on the glass like water.

All the while I kept an eye on the male in case of a sudden burst of feeding flight.

On the nearby shore the Mute Swans and their cygnets drew me to their reflections...

Then without warning the male Osprey glided into view. The Swans' had distracted me too much but I managed to reel off a few shots as he passed by.

Then, further up the lake and distant once again, he plunged into the dark water breaking the hazy reflection in search of an early breakfast...

As he clambered skywards it was clear he was unsuccessful this time around but he never gave up...

Even further away, he tried again...

and again, until even the smallest catch was taken back to feed the three young.
It was noticeable however that on many later successful fishing expeditions he would alight on a tree nearby, well out of sight of the female and the nest and take a while to feed on his own before taking the rest for the others to devour. He'd done all the hard work I suppose and took first shout on the fish. Fair enough in my eyes.

Later on in the day, Sarah and I hired an electric boat from the hire company on the shore just along from the nest. The lake is also used by fishermen who hire the boats for their own ends. We took the opportunity to get closer to the nest and maybe have a closer contact with a feeding bird?
£50 per hour is a little steep however so we limited ourselves to half an hour, but so little time is pushing your luck for a decent sighting, although they were always obvious around the nest. Just one plunging into the water before us would do?! 

There is an exclusion zone around the nest site and well intentioned it is, as the birds can be easily disturbed from nesting by over eager birdwatchers.

The male, or by the ring on his leg (7A) had been successful again and took the fish to his usual perch for first dibs...
I looked up his ring tag and found he had been born not far away at Furness a few years previously.

Back at the small harbour there is a cafe with the nest cam on screen giving superb views of the young on the nest, the adult on the edge with a fish.

After another brilliant day watching the Ospreys' around the lake I decided on another early evening walk while Sarah and her Mum rested back at base.

The next day we had planned a trip to Coniston Water but the morning early morning was mine again to see if  I could manage any better sights of the raptors once more. Most shots had been distant and this was to be an ongoing theme. I always wished for closer contact but had to make do with what was before me. More time was required to be honest but I made do with what was given. I couldn't grumble too much as it was more than I could have wished for before the trip began.

The sun was slightly higher in the sky from the previous morning so the mist had already evaporated but the light was bright and lit up the nest well from the shore on the opposite side of the lake.

The wind was virtually non existent once more which gave some spectacular views across Esthwaite.

 Every time the male went hunting, he was just out of reach of either sight or of decent lens opportunity.

 The untagged female sat patiently waiting for her meal while the male ate at his favoured spot just below them.

 This was the largest fish I ever saw him take. There are Char Salmon in the lake and this looked very much like one, almost as big as him !

 So good, he had to have first bite...

7A was out hunting again but never made a plunge near to me.

It was time to visit Coniston and what a refreshing change from Windermere. Much less congested from it's larger cousin and more wilderness to it's shores. Windermere has the air of a pleasure park of sailing to it whereas Coniston seems more untouched by man.

The boat trip was very informative, describing the area upon which Arthur Ransome wrote his classic book 'Swallows and Amazons' and visited some of the places described in the story.

The lake is also notably famous for the story of Donald Campbell's attempts at water speed records in Bluebird. He remains to this day, the only person to hold both land and water speed records at the same time, set in 1964.
It was on 4th January 1967 he was to make his final attempt to break his own water speed record in K7 on Coniston.
Coniston was used because of it's straightness for a long run in the hope of exceeding 300Mph.
After the first run he decided to go straight away again without refueling. The lightness of boat plus running over his wake were certainly contributing factors to the boat lifting off the water, somersaulting nearly 360 degrees and smashing onto the surface killing him instantly.

The boat sank in some of the deepest parts of the lake, his body not recovered, only his 'lucky' teddy bear mascot Mr Whoppet.
That was until the year 2000 when the wreck of Bluebird was recovered by diver Bill Smith who also recovered his body the following year.
He then undertook the enormous task of restoring the craft to it's original state with the blessing of Campbells daughter Gina.
A few days after our visit here, the restored Bluebird was taken for it's first trials on Loch Fad on the Isle of Bute. Not at the speeds intended for it's initial task but more as a tribute to the man who pushed the bounderies of technology in the 50's and 60's and excited a nation by his endeavours.

Having knowledge of it's history and it's current status gave our trip any eerie and ironic twist as we sailed over the spot of it's demise. Especially on such a glorious day.    

It had been a glorious day out on Coniston but my last hours of the day were to be filled with yet another few moments to grasp the glories of the Ospreys once more. They had become a drug, who knows when I would see them again?

The view from the shore to our cottage,,,

As I watched 7A return with yet another fish for supper, I wandered back to base for mine.

 Our last day was one all to my own. Where else would I want to spend it but down by the shore ever more determind for the money shot to end all money shots of Ospreys feeding right in front of me? But of all the days, the weather had turned and the forecast was for rain all day. Damn and blast !

It was dry to begin with so I went anyway..
Down by the shore I spooked a Roe Deer desperately trying to escape my presence.

The Ospreys' weren't too long in appearing...

 I make no apologies for the amount of time devoted to these special birds. Once on the brink of demise in this country, they have been a conservation success. Proof that man can help facilitate the proliferation of such an iconic species. There is something so special about this creature. Something tangible and awe inspiring. Enough for me to blabber on in admiration.  

 I didn't manage the perfect shots as the light faded and the rain began but we had had the most wonderful week in idyllic scenery and wonderful hospitality, how could I even begin to complain.

I reckon we may well return to this little pocket of treasure. No guesses what I will be hunting for if we do...?

My final parting shots were as regal as the area portrays and I'd hardly mentioned Beatrix Potter...

The title of this post is a line taken from the poem 'The Osprey' by Steve Hagget

https://www.poemhunter.com/poem/the-osprey/